Blogging from Syria

Layers of Belief
In The Axis
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Dome over the shrine of Habil, the Biblical Abel, forty-five minutes west of Damascus in Zabadani. This Old Testament son of Adam is considered a prophet in orthodox Islam, the first wasiyy or Successor amongst the Shiites, and the very manifestation of the light divine according to the Druze sect who administer this holy site.

Hitler, Hitler Everywhere
In The Axis
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Nazism has become the most convenient and abused metaphor applied to the baddies we don't like. Remember Rush Limbaugh's term 'feminazi' which he popularized in the 90s? As if university feminists were clandestinely stacking gassed bodies of males, heterosexuals, and Christians in the basements of America's colleges.

Wide Load
My Adventures in Syria
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All Dressed Up
In The Axis
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Hamidiyyeh Souk, the famous traditional market in Old Damascus, is all dressed up for the Mawlid al-Nabawi, the Birthday of the Prophet Muhammed. For the next couple months, mosques and private residents will be sponsoring commemorations of the Prophet's birth in which they recite the Qur'an, devotional poems and other religious works.

And...
TravelCkick
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There are, of course, other reasons why I find living in Doha frustrating. I think there needs to be a debate about whether citizens who are well-provided for but don't live under democratic rule can be truly happy.
reason number 1
TravelCkick
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Reason number 1 why I don't like living in Doha is because it's not a pedestrian/non-car owner friendly place. I know it's poor form to complain about a city I've only recently moved to, but tough.
The Judas of Islam
In The Axis
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In religion news, the Gospel of Judas has appeared on the scene, one of the many original Gnostic gospels that didn't make the cut for the actual Bible. For centuries, Judas has played the role of the reviled betrayer whose evil deeds led to the death of Jesus. A similar role is played in Shiite Islam by Muwawiyah ibn Abi Sufyan, who fought against Imam Ali and created the first irreparable rift in Islam. This is the resting place of Muwawiyah in Bab al-Saghir Cemetary in Damascus. Locals try to keep the location secret for fear that Shiites will vandalize his grave. You can't see it in this picture, but the word 'Lanat', or damnation, is spray-painted in large letters to the left of the door.

Dr. Sultan's Fifteen Minutes
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A number of American news outlets have been cheering Dr. Wafa Sultan's feisty appearance on Al-Jazeera a couple weeks back. The show featured Sultan opposite one Ibrahim Khouly, lecturer at the famous Egyptian Islamic university, Al-Azhar. Sultan characterized Islam as a medieval ideology pretending to compete with modern civilization. In America's imaginary Middle East, Sultan's performance caused a major disturbance in the Islamosphere. In the actual Middle East, it was barely noticed.

Even more children of Syria
My Adventures in Syria
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Mohammed al-Maghout
Blog.Syrie.be
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DAMAS, 5 avr 2006 (AFP) – 05/04/2006 12h53 – L’écrivain et poète syrien Mohammed al-Maghout, 72 ans, considéré comme le pionnier de la poésie arabe contemporaine et décédé lundi à Damas à la suite d’une longue maladie, a été inhumé mercredi dans son village natal de Salamya, à 210 km au nord de la [...]
Abdul Salam Oujaili
Blog.Syrie.be
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Abdul Salam Oujaili, l’un des plus importants écrivains syriens du siècle, est né en 1918 à Raqqa et est décédé hier. Il avait donc 88 ans. Il a étudié la médecine à l’université de Damas et a été élu député en 1947. Il a été plusieurs fois ministre de la culture, [...]
More children of Syria
My Adventures in Syria
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All the Ancient World in One Convenient Location
In The Axis
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True to its reputation, Dubai is showcasing another of its over-the-top projects, the Ibn Battuta Mall, 'The World Under One Roof'. The mall includes six sections based on various destinations in the 14th century Ibn Battuta's travels: China, India, Persia, Egypt, Tunisia, and Andalusia. Maybe we should have a Marco Polo Mall or a Daniel Boone Mall?

Economic News (April 4 2006)
Syria Comment
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On the economic front, the new issue of The Syria Report has come out. As usual it is excellent and well worth the small price.
"New Year, Old Problems for Kurds in Syria," by Denselow and Taa'i
Syria Comment
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James Denselow and Abdallah Taa'i have written an article for "Syria Comment" about the recent Nawruz demonstration of the Kurds in Syria and its suppression. BBC writes about the ongoing violence in Turkey which has cost 12 Kurds their lives in recent days.
Secularists and Islamists demand that Khaddam Apologize
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The formation of the National Liberation Front between Khaddam and Bayanouni continues to send shock waves through both the secular and Islamist camps. Both are angry that Khaddam has not apologized for his years of serving the state under Hafiz.
Top Tens II
In The Axis
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Uncool things in the Middle East, as promised:

1) Conspiracy Theories: Arabs have conspiracy theories for everything. There must be some scientific psychological way to explain this kind of mass neurosis. Princess Diana was killed because the Queen refused to risk having Muslim grandchildren, for instance.

The children of Syria
My Adventures in Syria
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Syrians love families and children (remember?), and their kids are some of the cutest around.
International banks join boycott of Syria
Syria Comment
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A European friend writes to say that most international banks are joining the Swiss and US to cut off dealings with the Commercial Bank of Syria. This raises pressure on Syria considerably.
In the Crac
In The Axis
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Apparently, the locals used to live in huts between the walls of the Crac des Chavalliers during the times when it wasn't occupied. I visited the castle on Syrian Mother's Day while I was staying in Homs, just a short hour or so microbus ride away.

On High
In The Axis
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A view from the world-famous Crac des Chevalliers an hour west of Homs, Syria. Originally built by the Kurds, the castle was occupied, built up, renovated, and used by various armies, from the Crusaders to Saladin to the Turks to the French.

Top Tens
In The Axis
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In an idle moment, I was thinking: what would be my Top Ten list for the coolest things, and the uncoolest things, I've seen in the Middle East.

Particularly Cool Things, in no particular order:

News Round UP (March 31, 2006)
Syria Comment
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A new law in Congress against Damascus
From Mideastwire.com
Bahia Mardini reported in Elaph, a pan-Arab website, on March 30 that: “The Syrian opposition denied, yesterday, media reports and interpretations concerning the statements made by Assistant Secretary of State David Welch in which he confirmed that no communication has been made between the American Administration and the former Syrian vice-President, Abed al-Halim Khaddam, but that Khaddam may have something to say that [the US] wants to hear. The [Syrian] Opposition said that America’s goal on this subject is not to dialogue with Khaddam but ‘to merely listen to the information he has against the Syrian regime’. Khaddam also revealed a new law that the Congress is studying called ‘Syria’s freedom’.
Musyaf Castle
My Adventures in Syria
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Syria Rescinds Ban on Religious Lessons in Mosques
Syria Comment
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Ibrahim Hamidi - the man in Sham - just published an article in al-Hayat explaining that Syrian authorities have set aside the recent decision of the Director of Awqaf in Damascus خالد المعتم Khalid al-Ma`tim, which forbid teaching religion lessons in the mosques and required them to close in between prayer times.
New Evidence in Hariri Murder
Syria Comment
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Asharq al-Awsat reports that a new phone call transcript has been given to the UN Hariri investigation team by British intelligence. The phone call was held between a high-ranking Lebanese official and his Syrian counterpart in which the former confirmed to the latter that the assassination had taken place and Al-Hariri had in fact been killed."
What is the Government's Religion Policy?
Syria Comment
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Is the Syrian Government trying to provoke sectarianism?
by an Anonymous Syrian, living in Syria
March 20, 2006

One of the central policies of the Baath Party from its inception has been to build “true” national consciousness and to treat all Syrians, regardless of their religious background, as equals.